Regions: Alaska
Objects: McKinley/Denali (6194m)

Activities: Mountaineering
Program's difficulty:

Group size: 2-4
Price: 8100 USD
The price is fixed at the moment of prepayment.
Deposit for reservations: 1000 USD.
Full payment 30 days before
No refund if you cancel less than 30 days!

Dates (Days 22/ Nights 21)

May 23 - June 16, 2024

Trip overview

Anchorage - Talkeetna - Airstrip (2200m) - Kahiltna Glacier - Camp Eleven (3300m) - Rangers` Camp (4350m) - High Camp (5200m) - Summit (6194m)

Why go there?

Classic Route - Western Buttress

Climbing McKinley - the highest point in North America - is sometimes compared with climbing Everest in complexity. It is really harsh and cold: tents among deserted snowy expanses, glaciers with lots of cracks, temperatures up to - 25-35 degrees. In general, you need to think carefully before embarking on such an adventure.

The proposed route is the classic route to the summit of McKinley (or Denali, which in the place of the Aleutian language means “high” or “great”) - along the West Buttress. The main part of the path passes through a “closed” glacier (a glacier whose surface is covered with snow, glacial cracks are not visible). This whole snow-ice route does not carry great technical difficulties, although the steepness of individual sections can reach 40–45 degrees. These sections are hung with a railing.

The route (the total length of about 30 km) goes along the Kahiltna glacier through the camps 2400m, 3000m, 3300m. It’s about 15 km on a Ski tour, dragging a sled with a load. Then the skis are left (usually in the Eleven camp at 3300 m) and the cats make a rather long transition, through the "Windy Corner", to a height of 4330 m. This is Advanced Base Camp (or Ranger Camp). The next passage to 5200 to the assault camp and from here, through the "Denali Pass" climb to the top. The route is complicated by very low temperatures (the problem is even going to the toilet) and an abundance of large cracks.

Itinerary

Day 1

Arrival in Anchorage. Transfer to the hostel (20min). Overnight at the hostel.

Day 2

Transfer to Talkitna (2.5 hours, 100 km). Overnight in a hostel.

Day 3

Meeting at the rangers in the morning (receiving permits and briefing). Packing things. Departure to the glacier after lunch (40 min.). Arrival on the glacier (2200m). Digging pits under tents. Setting up camp. Dinner.

Overnight in tents.

Day 4

Start the climb. From the airfield (7200 feet, 2200 m) to Camp 1 Fork (7800 feet) or Ski Hill (7900 feet, 2400 m). Setting up camp. Overnight in tents.

Day 5

Trekking to Camp 2, Upper Kahiltna Glacier (9600 ft, 2900 m).

Day 6

Trekking to Camp 3 (11,000 ft, 3,350 m). Usually skis and sledges are left here, as well as some of the products for the descent.

Day 7

Transfer to Camp 4 (BC) Rangers Camp (14,200 ft, 4,330 m). There is a passage via the famous Windy Corner, considered to be the key of the route. Descent to camp 3 (11 feet). Overnight at Camp 3 at 11,000 ft, 3,350 m.

Day 8

Move to the Rangers Camp / BC (14,200 ft, 4,330 m). Overnight.

Day 9

Rest and acclimatization in BC at 4330m.

Day 10

Carry to High Camp (17,200 ft, 5,240 m). Fixed ropes Descent to BC at 4330m. Overnight in BC at 4330m.

Day 11

Move to the camp (17,200 ft, 5,240 m). Night at 5240m.

Day 12

Rest and acclimatization in the camp at 5240m.

Day 13

Climbing to the top of McKinley / Denali (6193m). Descent to the camp at 5240m.

Day 14

Descent to BC (14,200 ft, 4,330 m). Overnight in BC at 4330m.

Day 15

Descent to camp 3 (11000 feet, 3350m).

Day 16

Descent (snowshoeing) to the airfield at 7200 ft / 2200m. Overnight at the airstrip.

Day 17

Flight to Talkitna.

Day 18

Transfer to Anchorage.

Day 19

Reserve day in case of bad weather.

Day 20

Reserve day in case of bad weather.

Day 21

Airport transfer. Departure home

Day 22

Arrival home

Price includes

return flights Talkitna-Kahiltna glacier (2200m) -Talkitna
return trasfer Anchorage - Talkitna - Anchorage
1 night in Anchorage in a hostel
1 night in Talkeetna in a hostel
consultation and assistance in preparing the necessary documents for receiving permits
consultation along the route
all the necessary group climbing equipment (tents, ropes, shovels, gas burners)
food on the route
escort by the representative of the Club of 7 Summits in Talkitna and Anchorage

Price does not include

international flight
visa application
climbing insurance
permit
personal equipment

Health and medical insurance

Doctors (volunteers) are on the Kahiltna Glacier, in BL at 4300 (Ranger Camp).
Need to take a first aid kit. In addition, we recommend that you take vitamins a month before the trip

Accommodation

In Anchorage, the hostel stays 1 night on arrival. In Talkitna, living in a house for climbers (several rooms for 6-8 people, such as a mountain shelter).

Meals

Meals in Anchorage are about $ 20-30 a day. In Talkitna, food is cheaper than $ 10-20. Breakfast at the Road House is good (less than $ 10 half).

Staff

Independent trip without guides.

Weather

Daytime on the glacier is about 0, night -10-20. At altitude it can drop to -30-35 ° С. The weather is changeable and unstable. Often, because of the weather, you have to sit out in camps.

CONTACT US:

+357 99 89 12 69 EVGEN STAROSELSKIY

e-mail: infostars.mountains@gmail.com

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Instagram page: yevgenstaroselskiy